writing on beer by Abram Goldman-Armstrong

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Brewsville: Chicago- The Craft Brewers Conference in Chicago was excellent, I finally got caught up in late May, and now I’m back in Chicago, and actually have time to visit some of the places that I didn’t get to during the CBC. I’m sitting in Piece, whose beers impressed me at the CBC opening reception at the Field Museum.

Matthew O'Hara of Beau's All Natural in Ontario with Sue, the tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton at the Field Museum for the CBC opening ceremony

Piece was established in a former roofing company space in the Wicker Park neighborhood in 2001. A huge vaulted skylight and exposed joists make a welcoming open atmosphere. The hooped trusses have interesting 2×6 lattice work connectors. The bar reflects the shap of the trusses, arking around a 22 degree corner which holds the 7 barrel brewhouse and fermentation area.

The impressive thing about Piece are the number of different yeast strains used to produce the nine beers currently on draught. The Golden Arm Koelsch 5% abv has the distinctive perfumey aroma of Koelsch yeast, and a pilsner malt flavor. A Bavarian wheat, and Belgian single (which is like a 4.5% tripel, beautiful bubblegum yeast notes) all employ signature yeast strains. There is also a Belgian Wit, with emphasis on the wheat flavor provided by a dry wit strain.Of the standards the Koelsch is a standout. The Full Frontal Pale Ale 6% is a Northwest-style pale with huge grapefruit aroma and grassy dry-hop flavor.

My favorite beer in the lineup has got to be the Big Black Mariah, a 7.5% porter with just a hint of smoked malt. The smoked malt is a subtle aroma note, but balanced quite well in the flavor with milk-chocolate like malt flavors. One of the reasons I’m such a fan is that it reminds me of Sailor Hagars’ Sherpa Porter, down to the milk-chocolate like mouthfeel.

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